Uncovering the Real Ligurian Coast: A Winter Journey Through North-West Italy's Charming Hamlets and Food.

A copper pot contains a egg mixture so richly colored it resembles molten gold. An attendant spoonfully serves the sugary, egg-yolk elixir, known as *zabaglione*, into dishes for dipping warm *pansarole* fritters. Talk stops, an unspoken contest to claim the last piece. It feels like genuinely living *la dolce vita*.

This sweet treat is a tradition in Apricale, a fairytale-like settlement in Liguria, Italy's curved region that embraces the Mediterranean. It's a far cry from the packed Cinque Terre and upscale Portofino to the south-east. This western side, on the south-eastern border with neighboring France, feels more genuine and calmer in the winter, with more residents than tourists. Released from competing for reservations, you are at liberty to be in the moment. Let whim be your guide – or, in my family's case, our stomachs.

A Family Journey Fueled by Fondness for Comfort Food

I traveled to Liguria with my sister, her spouse, and their teenage children, inspired by her period of study in Italy and our mutual love for the country's heartwarming, family-friendly cuisine. Our driving tour traveled from the coastal Flower Riviera to a constellation of medieval perched towns. In just a compact region, we stepped into the past.

My Sicilian ex had shown me Liguria one January. Though it was wet, the nearby mountains deflect the wind, creating a special weather zone with comparatively warm weather that average 13C. My family's December trip was bathed in the most gorgeous winter light, perfect for outdoor dining.

Ventimiglia: A Town Perched Between Sea and Sky

Heading east from Nice, the motorway is punctuated by a series of breathtaking curves and underground passages. Our first stop was a 45-minute drive away, just over the frontier. This town is divided into two parts: the bustling new town and the old upper town, suspended between sea and sky. On a sunny terrace, we tucked into fried calamari alongside Mediterranean views. The kids made like pirates in front of a sculpture of the literary character, the star of a famous swashbuckling novel.

We stepped through the winding maze of the historic center via the ancient Porta Nizza arch. Laundry was strung across colorful buildings, their beautiful patina born from centuries of wear. Two churches on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi have intriguing features: the lifelike *Cristo Morto* (depiction of Christ) and an ancient baptistery basin.

We walked into the labyrinth of the ancient quarter where washing was draped over pastel facades, their beautiful patina born from centuries of wear.

The Village of Dolceacqua: Stone Alleys and a Famous Bridge

Back in the car, we headed a short while north to the village by the river of Dolceacqua village. An spontaneous search for "places featuring tubs" resulted in finding a welcoming historic lodging set in the old neighborhood. Its quaint accommodations are contrasted with modern whirlpool baths. The ancient old quarter sits across the river via the picturesque ancient bridge that the painter Monet immortalized on canvas, as indicated by a figure of him by the water.

On the castle road, the children felt "enveloped by the rock walls" that leaned towards each other. We climbed the narrow Ligurian *caruggi* (lanes) to the Doria Castle. The seat of a powerful dynasty from the Renaissance era, Dolceacqua's ancient fortress is now an open-air vestige of soaring arches, a living history that is perfect for exploration.

Back in town for aperitivo, every cocktail came with a free plate of bites – "The way it's done," noted a companion. Our server at a trattoria told us confidently: "You'll love it all. If you don't like it, I'll finish it." We tucked into local specialties: *trofie* (curly) pasta with basil sauce, potatoes and green beans, and *barbajuan* (chard and ricotta-stuffed) fritters. All served with a local red wine, an earthy red that's rarely exported due to the precipitous vineyards' modest yield.

The Artists' Town: Gravity-Defying Beauty

The day after, we traveled a quarter-hour north-east to one of "the most beautiful villages in Italy", this stunning village. The terracotta-roofed village clings to green hills, seemingly hanging on. Known as an town of artists, Apricale's maze-like streets are lined with street art. We got a private showing, with stray cats the only inhabitants on the empty streets.

The central square, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, is framed by two historic churches and the renovated millennium-old Lizard Castle, whose underground prison felt like the middle ages. As did the equally vaulted stone dining room at a nearby restaurant, where we wouldn't have been surprised the waiter to serve with a sword. The place of the previously mentioned *zabaglione* also serves filling *coniglio* (rabbit stew) and braised pork with polenta and *farinata* (chickpea flatbread). On the way back to the hotel, we popped into another village, another idyllic spot, for a leisurely evening stroll – the classic Italian post-meal walk.

The Belle Epoque Metropolis

Back on the coast, the city of Sanremo felt like a large town compared with the quiet villages. The city of 53,000 became a resort town in the 19th century, when wealthy Europeans, particularly English travelers, decamped to the Mediterranean for its curative winter climate. Ornate historic grand hotels, gaming houses and villas are legacies of this era, their aging elegance like a starlet in her later years.

The city's main market was stocked with gargantuan cheese wheels, {cured meats|salamis|prosci